Giantess has always been one of my favourite designs. I released it a few years ago now and looking at it, I could see it was a little over complicated and was just a written pattern. I have wanted to go back an revisit it to a long time to make it more user friendly and I have finally done it.
Welcome to Part 3 of the Mayan Crochet Blanket CAL!
Inspired by the mystical geometry of the ancient Mayan people, this intricate blanket is an exploration of the Yucatan peninsula through crochet. The radiating lines of the central hexagon reflect the pyramids at Chichen Itza, while the surrounding shapes are reminiscent of the Mayan calendar. Enclosing it all are the rippling forms of the subtropical forest and the clear blue skies.
Let’s get straight into it!
Click on your the button with your preferred terms below to download Part 3 of the pattern. We’ll be making Rounds 13-17 this time around.
If you can’t wait for the next part, you can grab the Mayan Crochet Blanket Pattern in full right here for A$5.99. Select your preferred terms from the dropDown box and you’ll be taken straight to checkout – you don’t need to have a Paypal account!
HINTS AND TIPS FOR Part 3
Stitches and Techniques
The stitches and techniques we’ll use for this part are (US/UK terms):
sc/dc (YouTube Video)
hdc/htr (YouTube Video)
dc/tr (YouTube Video)
fp = front post (YouTube Video)
flo=front loop only
lbv = loop behind v (YouTube Video)
invisible join = a way to join without a visible seam
You’ll need to continue as many of this part as you need for the blanket size you decided on.
Video of Part 3
To see me making Part 3, check out the video here.
Round 13 – fp stitches, flo and stitches used twice
Keep an eye on the instructions as at the beginning and end of the repeat you need to skip one stitch.
In this round, there are 2 instances in each repeat where you use the same stitch twice. The first time is after your second front post (fp) stitch where you work a stitch into the stitch you work the fp around. That second stitch goes here :
Just like in Rounds 9 & 11, you’ll be working twice into the flo that was left over from working the blo stitch into a Round 11 stitch in Round 12.
When you’ve done one stitch after the second stitch worked into the flo, you’ll need to work a fp stitch around the post of the stitch you just worked into. This is where to work that stitch :
Round 15 -3 sts in one st and Invisible join
When you work this round, make sure you work three stitches in the one stitch at the points of the octagon.. If you only work one st, your stitch counts will be off and the later rounds won’t work.
This is the first of 2 times in the pattern where you have to cut the yarn regardless of whether you are doing the single or multicoloured version.
To get a really clean, seamless look at the end of the octagon shape, it’s necessary to cut the yarn and do an invisible join. It’s not as scary as it sounds. Here are the steps to follow to make it all work the best it can.
First, don’t join with a ss at the end of Round 15. Instead, cut the yarn and pull it up through the last st you made.
Then, thread your yarn needle with the tail. Insert the needle under the “v” of the second stitch of Round 15 – yes we are ignoring the first st.
Next, poke your needle back through the top of the last st of Round 15 and also through the loop on the back behind the top v of the stitch.
Pull the tail through, watching for that perfect V shape that will form on top of the first st of Round 15 before you stop pulling.
Now begin to sew the end in under a few stitches, but don’t finish weaving it in. Leave if for now and we’ll weave it in properly after Round 16 is done. Doing this helps keep your invisible join invisible.
Round 16 – Standing st and loop behind v (lbv)
To begin this round, you’ll need to work a standing stitch in the “lbv”. It’s easy
The loop behind v (lbv) has many names. Some call it the back bump, the third loop, the back back loop to name a few. I name is as it is – the loop behind the v you normally work into.
So to start this round you first need to find the right stitch to start in which is the stitch directly above one of the points of the sun shape in the centre. If you’ve done everything right so far, that will be easy to find as there will be a line of fp stitches leading up from it to the edge.
Once you’ve found the right stich, you will attach your standing st to the lbv – the loop on the back behind the v of the st.
All stitches of Round 16 are worked into the lbv.
Once you’ve finished this round, you can go back and weave in that end from Round 15.
Round 17 – Ruffled and skipping stitches
This round will be quite ruffled so don’t be alarmed. The next round will make it nice and flat again.
What we are doing is creating popcorn stitches in a non-traditional way. First, we make groups of 5 sts in one st with a 1 ch sp either side of them. In the next round, we’ll use those 1 ch sps to gather the 5 st groups into popcorn shapes.
You will have to concentrate in this round as it seems counterintuitive to ch 1 then work sts into the next st. Trust the pattern. Skip when it says instead of where you think you should skip. Basically you work a set of 6 large sts, skip a st, work a stitch into the next 2 sts then ch 1 and work 5 sts into the next st, ch 1 and work a stitch into the next 2 sts before beginning the repeat again.
Check your stitch counts regularly to make sure you’re on track.
I am here to help you if you get stuck. Check out the video of Part 3 first as the answer you need may be there, but if it’s not, feel free to head over to my Facebook group, email me or just add a comment on this post.
Get the Mayan CAL patterns by email!
If you’d like to get the rest of the CAL parts straight to your inbox, sign up here, making sure you tick the Mayan CAL box and any other’s you’re interested in.
Share your progress!
If you’d like to share your Mayan Crochet Blanket progress and connect with others doing the CAL, there are lots of ways to do that:
So there you go! I hope you enjoy making Part 3. Don’t forget you can get the whole pattern now here.