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Beneath the Surface CAL – Part 1

Welcome to the Beneath the Surface Crochet Blanket CAL! It’s finally here! Hooray!

Beneath the Surface CAL by Shelley Husband

I’m so glad to have you hooking along with us. I am really looking forward to seeing what you do so please make sure you check out the many ways to share and connect with others down the bottom. I’ll be watching ?

If you missed the preliminary info, you can read about it here. If you haven’t got your yarn yet, you’ll find the yarn requirements here.  All parts of the CAL will be linked to here.

Let’s get straight into it!

Part 1 – Plain Square

BTS CAL by Shelley Husband

You’ll need to make 18 of these Plain squares and join them into 2 strips of 9.  Leave these 2 strips un-joined.   Here’s a picture of the whole layout.

Beneath the Surface by Shelley Husband layout

The 2 strips we’re making are highlighted below.

Beneath the Surface by Shelley Husband Part 1

PATTERN

Click on your the button with your preferred terms below to download the Puff Square pattern.

  

If you can’t wait for the next part, you can grab the Beneath the Surface Crochet Blanket Pattern as a PDF in full right here for A$6.99. Select your preferred terms from the dropdown box and you’ll be taken straight to checkout – you don’t need to have a Paypal account!  If you have an e-reader, an ebook version will be available soon on Amazon, Barnes and Noble, Kobo and iBooks

 

 

Hints and Tips for Part 1

Stitches and Techniques

The stitches and techniques we’ll use for this pattern are (US/UK terms):

sc/dc  (YouTube Video)
hdc/htr  (YouTube Video)
dc/tr (YouTube Video)
htr/hdtr (YouTube Video)
tr/dtr (YouTube Video)
surface crochet (YouTube Video)
joining (YouTube Video)

Video of Plain Square

To see me making Plain square, check out the video here.  If you just want to check out the squaring off in Round 6, you’ll find that at about 6:30 minutes.

Magic Circle

I like to begin with a magic circle instead of chaining and making a loop to work into as you can pull it really tightly closed.  You do have to be very diligent sewing in your ends though so remember that if you choose to use a magic circle.

You can watch my YouTube video showing how here.

False st instead of ch 3 starting chain

For a more seamless look, I like to do a false stitch instead of the standard ch 3 starting chain. You don’t have to do it if the stating chain doesn’t bother you.  It’s really ok.  If you do want to, you can watch my YouTube video here.  It IS a bit fiddly when you first try, but I think it’s worth learning.

Super wobbly, not flat squares

Don’t worry!  Once you do the surface crochet, your squares will pull in to almost flat. A quick blocking will make them really straight and square.

This is perfectly normal! See my progress shot here?  Wobbly, then not so wobbly after the surface crochet, then lovely and square after blocking.

Surface Crochet

This may be something new to you, but it’s not tricky.  You can do it.  I find it quite therapeutic to do.  Such a gentle rhythmic action.  I have a video showing you how to do it here and it includes weaving in the ends.

Weave in your ends as you go.  Trust me on this.  Do you really want to have to deal with over 500 ends just from the surface crochet at the end?  I sure don’t!

When weaving in the ends, check your work from the front to make sure you can’t see the needle before you pull the yarn tail through or you’ll see your yarn from the front.

If you find your squares are still very wobbly after the surface crochet, try using a smaller hook to do the surface crochet. If you find your squares are pulled in too tight, try using a larger hook to do the surface crochet.

You will see the surface crochet yarn on the back.  Here’s what one of my plain squares looks like from the back.

Blocking

After you’ve done your surface crochet, it’s a good idea to block your squares so they’re nice and flat and square.  Joining will help a little, but for a really crisp look, blocking is your friend.

I do it very simply.  I pin out my squares on those big foam mats intended for flooring and squirt them with steam from my iron and let them cool/dry.  These square tend to need a pin in each corner first, then a couple more on each side close to the corner to square them nicely.

Joining!

Yes we are going to join as we make our squares so at the end, you just have the border to do.

BTS CAL by Shelley Husband

We are going to join our squares by crocheting them together. I have made a video showing how to do it here, but here’s the instructions in words for you.

Hold squares right sides together, attach main colour yarn with a standing single crochet/double crochet (US/UK) to both 2-chain corner spaces on each square at the same time. Work a single crochet/double crochet (US/UK) into both loops of both squares all the way along, end with a single crochet/double crochet (US/UK) in both 2-chain corner spaces. Fasten off.

Once you’ve made your 18 squares, join 9 of them into one long strip. Then make another 9 square long strip. And that’s it for this week.

BTS CAL by Shelley Husband

Hooray! You should have 2 strips just like mine below

BTS CAL by Shelley Husband

HELP!

I am here to help you if you get stuck.  Check out the video of this pattern first as the answer you need may be there, but if it’s not, feel free to head over to my Facebook groupemail me or just add a comment on this post.

Get the Beneath the Surface CAL patterns by email!

If you’d like to get the rest of the CAL parts straight to your inbox, sign up here, making sure you tick the Beneath the Surface CAL box.

Share your progress!

If you’d like to share your Beneath the Surface Crochet Blanket progress and connect with others doing the CAL, here’s how you can do that:

So there you go!  I hope you enjoy making Part 1. It won’t take you long I’m sure. Don’t forget you can get the entire pattern now right here.

See you on 28th January with Part 2 of the Beneath the Surface CAL!

xx Shelley

 

Mayan CAL – Part 7 – the last one!

Hi folks!

Welcome to the last Part of the Mayan Crochet Blanket CAL!

Multi Mayan Crochet Blanket by Shelley Husband7 Continue reading

Mayan CAL – Part 6

Hi folks!

Welcome to Part 6 of the Mayan Crochet Blanket CAL! A little early for you!

Multi Mayan Crochet Blanket by Shelley Husband7 Continue reading

Mayan CAL – Part 5

Hi folks!

Welcome to Part 5 of the Mayan Crochet Blanket CAL!

Multi Mayan Crochet Blanket by Shelley Husband7 Continue reading

Mayan CAL – Part 4

Hi folks!

Welcome to Part 4 of the Mayan Crochet Blanket CAL!

Multi Mayan Crochet Blanket by Shelley Husband7 Continue reading

Mayan CAL – Part 3

Hi folks!

Welcome to Part 3 of the Mayan Crochet Blanket CAL!

Multi Mayan Crochet Blanket by Shelley Husband7

Inspired by the mystical geometry of the ancient Mayan people, this intricate blanket is an exploration of the Yucatan peninsula through crochet. The radiating lines of the central hexagon reflect the pyramids at Chichen Itza, while the surrounding shapes are reminiscent of the Mayan calendar. Enclosing it all are the rippling forms of the subtropical forest and the clear blue skies.

If you missed the earlier parts, the links to all parts of the CAL are/will be here, the FAQ are here.  If you haven’t got your yarn yet, you’ll find the yarn requirements here.

Let’s get straight into it!

Part 3

Mayan Crochet Blanket Part 3 by Shelley Husband

PATTERN

Click on your the button with your preferred terms below to download Part 3 of the pattern. We’ll be making Rounds 13-17 this time around.

Spincushions_Buy Buttons-SHOP_R0_download uk

If you can’t wait for the next part, you can grab the Mayan Crochet Blanket Pattern in full right here for A$5.99. Select your preferred terms from the dropDown box and you’ll be taken straight to checkout – you don’t need to have a Paypal account!

HINTS AND TIPS FOR Part 3

Stitches and Techniques

The stitches and techniques we’ll use for this part are (US/UK terms):

sc/dc  (YouTube Video)
hdc/htr  (YouTube Video)
dc/tr (YouTube Video)
fp = front post (YouTube Video)
flo=front loop only
lbv = loop behind v (YouTube Video)
invisible join = a way to join without a visible seam

You’ll need to continue as many of this part as you need for the blanket size you decided on.

Video of Part 3

To see me making Part 3, check out the video here.

Round 13 – fp stitches, flo and stitches used twice

Keep an eye on the instructions as at the beginning and end of the repeat you need to skip one stitch.

In this round, there are 2 instances in each repeat where you use the same stitch twice.  The first time is after your second front post (fp) stitch where you work a stitch into the stitch you work the fp around. That second stitch goes here :

      

Just like in Rounds 9 & 11, you’ll be working twice into the flo that was left over from working the blo stitch into a Round 11 stitch in Round 12.

When you’ve done one stitch after the second stitch worked into the flo, you’ll need to work a fp stitch around the post of the stitch you just worked into. This is where to work that stitch :

Round 15 -3 sts in one st and Invisible join

When you work this round, make sure you work three stitches in the one stitch at the points of the octagon..  If you only work one st, your stitch counts will be off and the later rounds won’t work.

This is the first of 2 times in the pattern where you have to cut the yarn regardless of whether you are doing the single or multicoloured version.

To get a really clean, seamless look at the end of the octagon shape, it’s necessary to cut the yarn and do an invisible join.  It’s not as scary as it sounds.  Here are the steps to follow to make it all work the best it can.

First, don’t join with a ss at the end of Round 15.  Instead, cut the yarn and pull it up through the last st you made.

Then, thread your yarn needle with the tail.  Insert the needle under the “v” of the second stitch of Round 15 – yes we are ignoring the first st.

Next, poke your needle back through the top of the last st of Round 15 and also through the loop on the back behind the top v of the stitch.

Pull the tail through, watching for that perfect V shape that will form on top of the first st of Round 15 before you stop pulling.

Now begin to sew the end in under a few stitches, but don’t finish weaving it in. Leave if for now and we’ll weave it in properly after Round 16 is done.  Doing this helps keep your invisible join invisible.

Round 16 – Standing st and loop behind v (lbv)

To begin this round, you’ll need to work a standing stitch in the “lbv”.  It’s easy

The loop behind v (lbv) has many names.  Some call it the back bump, the third loop, the back back loop to name a few.  I name is as it is – the loop behind the v you normally work into.

So to start this round you first need to find the right stitch to start in which is the stitch directly above one of the points of the sun shape in the centre. If you’ve done everything right so far, that will be easy to find as there will be a line of fp stitches leading up from it to the edge.

Once you’ve found the right stich, you will attach your standing st to the lbv – the loop on the back behind the v of the st.

All stitches of Round 16 are worked into the lbv.

Once you’ve finished this round, you can go back and weave in that end from Round 15.

Round 17 – Ruffled and skipping stitches

This round will be quite ruffled so don’t be alarmed.  The next round will make it nice and flat again.

What we are doing is creating popcorn stitches in a non-traditional way.  First, we make groups of 5 sts in one st with a 1 ch sp either side of them.  In the next round, we’ll use those 1 ch sps to gather the 5 st groups into popcorn shapes.

You will have to concentrate in this round as it seems counterintuitive to ch 1 then work sts into the next st.  Trust the pattern.  Skip when it says instead of where you think you should skip.  Basically you work a set of 6 large sts, skip a st, work a stitch into the next 2 sts then ch 1 and work 5 sts into the next st, ch 1 and work a stitch into the next 2 sts before beginning the repeat again.

General Tips

Check your stitch counts regularly to make sure you’re on track.

HELP!

I am here to help you if you get stuck.  Check out the video of Part 3 first as the answer you need may be there, but if it’s not, feel free to head over to my Facebook group, email me or just add a comment on this post.

 

Get the Mayan CAL patterns by email!

If you’d like to get the rest of the CAL parts straight to your inbox, sign up here, making sure you tick the Mayan CAL box and any other’s you’re interested in.

Newsletter & CAL signup


 

Tick which ones you’d like

Newsletter

Mayan CAL 2017

Siren’s Atlas

 

Share your progress!

If you’d like to share your Mayan Crochet Blanket progress and connect with others doing the CAL, there are lots of ways to do that:

So there you go!  I hope you enjoy making Part 3. Don’t forget you can get the whole pattern now here.

xx Shelley