All the info and links to previous patterns for the CAL can be found on the CAL-Crochet-A-Long website.
Let’s meet my second pattern for the CAL – Sydney. If you squint your eyes a bit you may be reminded of the Sydney Harbour Bridge with the lacy parts and the Sydney Opera House in the centre and outer corners. 😉
This pattern is a bit more complex than last week’s, but you can do it! It will be 12″ in worsted weight or 10 ” in 8 ply (DK/light worsted). I’ll give you tips down below if you need to adjust for size which is possible as there are so many variables involved. It’s ok – we can make it work!
The pattern was designed for single colour, but you can change it up if you wish. Notes on how to change colour most effectively are down below.
The pattern has round by round photos for you to refer to if needed.
The pattern can be downloaded right here – just click the name of the version you’d like. As always, my pattern is available in both US & UK terms, plus the pattern has been translated into many languages.Thanks so much to all the hard working translators!
Hints and Tips
The ch 3 starting chains count as the first st. When starting a round with a sc, I don’t instruct you to do a ch 1 first as you may be used to, but you can do that it it makes it easier for you to join up to that first sc. If you do that, that ch 1 starting chain does NOT count as a stitch.
I have a YouTube channel that has short and sweet how to videos for all stitches and techniques used in this pattern. Here are the links for the ones used in this time around :
sc = single crochet YouTube Video
(dc or double crochet in UK terms)
dc = double crochet YouTube Video
(tr or treble crochet in UK terms)
hdc = half double crochet YouTube Video
(htr = half treble crochet UK terms)
tr = triple crochet You Tube Video
(dtr or double treble crochet UK terms)
fp = front post stitches YouTube Video
standing st (for starting new colour) YouTube Video
false dc = false double crochet. While the pattern uses the standard ch 3 in place of the first dc (ch 4 for first tr), in reality I use a false stitch instead as I find it stands out less. It is fiddly to learn, but I think it’s worth the effort to learn. YouTube Video
Front post stitches
When a stitch abbreviation has “fp” in front of it, it means instead of working the stitch into the top of the next stitch as you usually would, you work the stitch around the post of the the next stitch from the front. It’s a technique you’ll use with dc, hdc & sc (US terms) in this pattern.
My tips for working front post stitches are :
- when working front post stitch, pull up a loop longer than you would if working into a st
- fold your work away from yourself to make the post easier to insert your hook under
If changing colours while the pattern is still round, attach your yarn with a standing stitch or your preferred method to a different stitch to where you ended the last round. If you’re changing colours after it goes square, ch the same number of sts as other corners of the round and end with a ss. Using a different corner all helps add to the seamless look.
You’re Sydney square should be about 12″ but if it’s not, here’s what you can do :
- if it’s just a little too big, leave off the last round.
- if it’s more than a little too big, there’s not a lot of wriggle room at the end of this pattern, so a hook size smaller may be your answer
- If it’s only a little bit too small, blocking may be all you need. No fancy equipment needed, just pin out to size and squirt it with steam from your iron.
- if it’s more than a little too small, depending how much you need to add, make another round or 2 of sc, or if it’s a fair bit smaller, an extra round of dc before the sc rounds.
It’s perfectly normal for your Sydney to be a wobbly. It’s because of the built in sections that act a bit like shock absorbers. Those lacy parts in the circle and the skipped stitches in the 3rd last round act as wriggle room to flatten things out when you block your work. Here’s a photo of an unblocked and a blocked Sydney. It’s worth the few minutes it takes. Honest.
I think that’s it. For help about how I write my patterns, please check out the notes in the Melbourne post. For general help, please check out the CAL tips post as it may answer your question. For help specific to this pattern, feel free to ask in the CAL Facebook Group and tag me (Shelley Husband), comment here on this post, tag a pic on Instagram with #patternbyspincushions, email me – whatever you like and I’ll help you out as soon as I can.
Well that’s all from me for this CAL. I hope you’ve enjoyed playing with my patterns. Feel free to have a poke around the blog and check out my other patterns. I have free patterns, ebooks, pattern shop and even a free crochet app! Or, if you’d like to stay up to date with what I’m up to, sign up for my newsletter for a monthly dose of crochet fun.