Melbourne Free Pattern

Hi folks!

Well this is all a bit exciting!   At the start of this year, I was asked if I’d like to contribute a couple of patterns to a CAL (crochet-a -long) being run by the Crochet-Along Group over on Facebook. It was such a pleasure to be asked and I’m in some very good company I can tell you!  Already 7 fabulous designers have posted their stunning patterns and now its my turn! There are some crochet superstars on the designers list – I am so honoured to be included.

All the info and links to previous patterns for the CAL can be found on the CAL-Crochet-A-Long website.

 

Melbourne by Shelley Husband 2016 both 2

For those of you new to my blog and my patterns, let me introduce myself.  Hi!  I’m Shelley and I live on the South West Coast of Victoria in Australia.  I love nothing more than to design new crochet patterns!  Seamless crochet is a bit of  thing for me and I love to teach folks how to extend their crochet skills in new ways.  If you’re keen to try new things – you’ll be fine with any of my patterns.  My way of doing things may be a bit different for you, but I have plenty of help ready so you can be successful with any of my patterns.

Melbourne Pattern

So let’s meet my first pattern for the CAL – Melbourne.

Melbourne by Shelley Husband 2016 both 5

This is a simple repeating pattern you can make to any size, but I’ve modified it so it will be 12″ in worsted weight or 10 ” in 8 ply (DK/light worsted). I’ll give you tips down below if you need to adjust for size which is possible as there are so many variables involved.  It’s ok – we can make it work!

Melbourne by Shelley Husband 2016 gray

The pattern was designed for single colour,  but you can change it up if you wish.  Notes on how to change colour most effectively are down below.

Melbourne by Shelley Husband 2016 both 4

The pattern has round by round photos for you to refer to if needed.

PATTERN

The pattern can be downloaded right here – just click the name of the version you’d like.  As always, my pattern is available in both US & UK terms, plus the pattern has been translated into 10 other languages – we really are part of a global community. 🙂  Thanks so much to all the hard working translators!

English : UK Terms     US Terms

Danish  Dutch  Finnish  French  German

Hebrew   Korean   Polish   Spanish   Swedish

For those of you wishes to add it to your Ravlery projects, here’s the link : Ravelry

Melbourne by Shelley Husband 2016 multi 4

Hints and Tips

How to read my patterns

If this is the first time you’re making one of my patterns, here’s how they work. This is the written pattern for the first 2 rounds of a traditional granny square, made my way:

Round 1

ch 3 (st ch), 2 tr, *ch 2, 3 tr*, repeat from * to * twice, ch 1, join with dc to 3rd ch of st ch.

{3 sts along each side and 4 x 2 ch sps}

Round 2

ch 3 (st ch), 2 tr over joining dc, *ch 1**, (3 tr, ch 2, 3 tr) in 2 ch sp*, repeat from * to * twice and from * to ** once, 3 tr in same sp as first sts, ch 1, join with dc to 3rd ch of st ch.

{6 sts & 1 x 1 ch sp along each side, 4 x 2 ch corner sps}

I will tell you how to begin the round then you’ll see an asterisk.  This * indicates the beginning of a repeat.  You work along until you get to the words “repeat from…”  That is your cue to go back to the first * and repeat as instructed.  After the repeats are done, the pattern will instruct you to finish of the round.

The instructions between * and ** = a side only.  The instructions between ** and * = a corner.  So that means the instructions between * and * = one side and the following corner.

The words in the curly brackets { } are the stitch count for the round.  Check this every now and then to make sure you’re on track.

Starting Chains

The ch 3 starting chains count as the first st.  When starting a round with a sc, I don’t instruct you to do a ch 1 first as you may be used to, but you can do that it it makes it easier for you to join up to that first sc.  If you do that, that ch 1 starting chain does NOT count as a stitch.

Melbourne by Shelley Husband 2016 both 3

YouTube

I have a YouTube channel that has short and sweet how to videos for all stitches and techniques used in this pattern. Here are the links for the ones used in this time around :

sc = single crochet YouTube Video
(dc or double crochet in UK terms)

dc = double crochet YouTube Video
(
tr or treble crochet in UK terms)

hdc = half double crochet YouTube Video
(htr = half treble crochet UK terms)

tr = triple crochet You Tube Video
(
dtr or double treble crochet UK terms)

standing st (for starting new colour) YouTube Video

false dc = false double crochet.  While the pattern uses the standard ch 3 in place of the first dc (ch 4 for first tr), in reality I use a false stitch instead as I find it stands out less.  It is fiddly to learn, but I think it’s worth the effort to learn. YouTube Video

The corners

To make my crochet patterns as seamless as possible, I begin and end most of my patterns in the middle of a corner.  Say for example a round has ch 6 corner spaces.  Well in that case I would end the round with a ch 2, join with a dc.  That places your hook in the middle of what would normally be a 6 ch sp and you might work the first stitches of the next round over that joining dc as if it were the second 3 ch of a 6 ch corner, depending on the pattern.  I have made a video explaining it all here.

Following on from that, if a corner has a 2 ch space, I end the last corner with a ch 1, join with sc.  It places your hook in the middle of the 2 ch sp . Think of that joining  sc as if it were the 2nd ch of a 2 ch sp.

To make it easy to do at first, I recommend using a scrap of yarn as a stitch marker to help show you where to work your last sts of rounds (and sometimes first) until you get the hang of it. Simply place a scrap of yarn in the corner space after you join with the sc or htr. If the next round says to work over the joining st, insert your hook where the yarn scrap is and work your way around, finishing with the last st/s also where the scrap of yarn is.  Then finish the round and move the scrap of yarn to the corner just finished.

example using a stitch marker

Changing Colour

If you are ending a colour, then instead of joining with a stitch as discussed above, chain the same number as other corners of the round and join with a slip stitch.  Then, attach your yarn with a standing stitch or your preferred method to a different corner.  (Using a different corner all helps add to the seamless look.)

Melbourne by Shelley Husband 2016 multi 3

Size

You’re Melbourne square should be about 12″ but if it’s not, here’s what you can do :

  • if it’s too big, leave off a round or 2
  • If it’s only a little bit too small, blocking may be all you need.  No fancy equipment needed, just pin out to size and squirt it with steam from your iron.
  • if it’s more than a little too small, depending how much you need to add, make another round or 2 of sc, or add another round of dc after Round 11 and finish with as many rounds of sc you need to make it to size.

If yours develops a wobble…

Don’t stress 🙂  The first couple of rounds are a bit wobbly, but later rounds should correct the wobble.  If there’s still some wonkiness, give it a quick block.  Here’s mine before and after blocking :

Melbourne unblocked vs blocked by Shelley Husband 2016

I think that’s it.  For general help, please check out the CAL tips post as it may answer your question.  For help specific to this pattern, feel free to ask in the CAL Facebook Group and tag me (Shelley Husband), comment here on this post, tag a pic on Instagram with #patternbyspincushions, email me – whatever you like and I’ll help you out as soon as I can.

Melbourne by Shelley Husband 2016 multi

I hope you enjoy the meditative nature of this one.  See you next week with my second contribution – a fancier pattern!

If you’d like to stay up to date with what I’m up to, sign up for my newsletter for a monthly dose of crochet fun 🙂

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