Category Archives: crochet

Crochet patterns designed by me!

2 Replies

Hi folks :)

If you are following me on Instagram, you’ll know that crochet has been taking a lot of my crafty time.

Shell Collection Granny Square (still in testing)

It seemed to me a natural progression for me to start designing my own crochet patterns. So that’s what I have been doing.  It’s so much fun!  Really challenges my brain writing down all those teeny steps – but that’s a good thing.  I’m also releasing the patterns in both UK & US terms.  Why not eh? I do enough translating for the In a Spin CAL.

Here are some of the designs I’ve come up with so far.

This was the first square I made.  Its available for free over on Ravelry –  Garden Trellis Granny Square.

Garden Trellis Granny Square

This one has just been through the testing process and released today. Its also free over on Ravelry – Garden Gate Granny Square

Garden Gate Granny Square

This one in still in testing mode.  My first 30cm (12″) block.

Victorian Hearts Granny Square

I have set up a group over on Ravelry for folks to come help me with my new designs by testing them before I release them out into the wild.  Sound like something you’d like to do?  Cool! Head over here to join in the fun :)

There will be a lot more.  Each time I do one, loads of new ideas hit me.  Love a new direction!

 

 

In a Spin Week 26

Leave a reply

Hi folks :)

Last week, most of the crocodile dahlias I saw were blue and they all looked great.

By jsoekov – again LOL

 

By Judith S

 

By Julie S

This week we are hooking up another 30 cm (12″) block.  Its called Impossible Hexagon by Stramenda of Ravelry.  I love a hexie – how cool to have one that turns into a square!

By Stramenda

Notes

We’re after another 30cm (12″) block so make it up to size then add your normal border of dc (sc).

This is another week that you’ll have to do the translating to UK terms yourself.  It’s ok – you can do it.  If you need some help, there is this post that helps you through the process.

Block 28 US Version

You will find the US version of the pattern on Stramenda’s blog.  You can go direct to the blog post here, or go via Ravelry so you can add it to your projects by clicking here.

By savagerabbit

Joining

Once you’re done, join this one to the Efflorescent Window block from week 24.  You should now have your second row of 6 x 30 cm (12″) squares. Hooray!

Don’t forget to share pics about the place so we can see how you’re going :)

Next week, we’ll have a big joining session and you’ll see your throw start to come together.

In a Spin Week 25

Leave a reply

Hiho folks :)

Your windows from last week look lovely :)

By thecarrlette on Ravelry

 

By Judith S from Facebook

By me

This week we are tackling something I’ve wanted to for a very long time. Crocodile stitch!  Our pattern comes to us this week from Joyce Lewis.  Its called Crocodile Stitch Afghan Block – Dahlia and its a beauty!

By dunnica (Joyce Lewis)

Notes

I’ve had a go at this one for another CAL I am doing (Canny Cal by Sewcanny) and I loved it.

By me for the Canny CAL

Size and Border

We are after a 15cm (6″) block this week – so you know what to do by now :)  I had to leave off of couple of rounds.

Block 27 UK Version & US Version

Joyce has made it really easy for me this week as the pattern is available to download in both UK & US terms!  Thanks so much Joyce!  You can find the link to the download here.  Click download pattern then choose which terms you’d like :)

By me in cotton yarn

Joining

Once you’re done, join this one to the Garden Granny from Week 22.

Don’t forget to share pics about the place so we can see how you’re going :)

In a Spin Week 24

Leave a reply

Hi folks :)

How’d you go with the Kiss Fist?  I love this square.  So effective!

By jsoekov – I know I feature Judy’s a lot – I can’t help it. They are always fabulous

 

By thecarrlette of Ravelry

By Lesley E of Facebook

This week we are back to a biggy – a 30cm (12″) square called The Efflorescent Window by Laurie (Delphis) on Ravelry.  This block was designed for a friend diagnosed with breast cancer and was to convey hope, love and peace.  Lovely :)  Laurie has kindly given permission for me to translate the pattern below  Thank you so muck Laurie.

By Rebby of Ravelry

Notes

Make the block 30 cm (12″) then add your normal border of dc(sc).

The download version of the pattern also has instructions to make a 15cm (6″) square.

Even if you are using the UK terms below, I recommend downloading the US terms pattern as well because it has step by step photos to help you as well.

The pattern has a link to an alternative to your starting chain which is great and I use it all the time now – but I find the paper clip fiddly so I don’t do that bit.  There is also another way to start a tr(dc) when you change colours as well – no need to ss and ch – the link for that method is here.  I’m going to try it out when I change colours.

Block 26 UK Version

Use a  6 mm (J) hook

Definitions and Instructions for special stitches:

Cluster - 1.) yo insert hook into next stitch yo and pull through leave two loops on hook 2.) yo insert hook into next stitch yo and pull through there will be three loops on the hook. 3.) yo insert hook into next stitch yo and pull through there will be 4 hoops on the hook. 4.) yo pull through first 3 loops 5. Yo and pull through last two loops.

Clustered corner – make a cluster in the corner space chain 2 make another cluster in the same corner space ( cluster chain 2 cluster)

Corner for round two only – 3 treble crochet, chain 2, 3 treble crochet

Chainless starting treble crochet – (chain less start video link ) This method is used throughout the project to begin the treble crochet rounds. Feel free to substitute chain three to start if this is easier for you.

Directions for 12” square

Step 1: Using Colour A – Chain 4 and slip stitch together to join a circle, Chain 1 (This is done to create height in Round 1.

Round 1: 16 Double crochet into the formed circle, Slip stitch to first dc. [16 dc]

Change yarn colour to Colour B

Round 2: Attached to any double crochet to form to first corner, make a corner (see above directions), skip three dc from previous round, make next corner. Repeat two more times until there are 4 corners. Slip stitch to first treble crochet. A square is formed. [24 tr and 8 chain]

Round 3: Begin making a chainless starting treble crochet – since this stitch will be a part of the cluster (see first page for directions) do not finish the stitch leave the last two loops on the hook and finish making a cluster. **Make a cluster in the first three tr stitches – chain two then make a corner cluster (see directions on the first page) in the corner space then chain 2 . Make a cluster in the next three stitches chain 2.*** (repeat from ** to *** 3 more times) slip stitch together to form a square. [16 clusters] – OPTION first stitch of round 3 can be chain three if you cannot do a chainless start. You will use the loop of the chain three and grab a loop from the next chain closest to the hook to form the first cluster.

Change to yarn colour A

Round 4: ++In a chain two space before any corner cluster form the previous round, double crochet 3 times in the space, then in the corner space from previous round, double crochet 3 times, then chain 2 , and double crochet 3 more times in the space. [the first corner is made.] Double crochet 3 times in the next chain 2 space. In the centre chain2 space from the previous round, double crochet 1, then wrap the yarn around 3 times and make a triple treble front post stitch into round 1, the double crochet into the same chain 2 space+++ (repeat from ++ to +++ 3 times) [60 double crochet (4) of which are front post into the first round]

Change to yarn colour C

Round 5: Treble crochet in each double crochet from previous round. To form the corners in the corner space form previous round – treble crochet , chain 2, treble crochet. Each side will have 15 treble crochets from corner to corner not including the treble crochets from the corner. [68 tr and 8 chain]

Change to yarn colour B

Round 6: NOTE: This row is a base for the next round of cluster stitches. Begin in any treble crochet before a corner and attach to the previous round by a double crochet. Then chain 2, skip the corner space and double crochet into the next treble crochet after the corner space. ^^Chain 2 , skip next 2 treble crochet stitches from previous round and double crochet into 3rd treble crochet, Repeat 4 times to the next corner space ) chain 2 and skip corner space dc into next tr after the corner space. ^^^ Repeat 3 more times from ^^ to ^^^ slip stitch at end of round to the first dc of the round. [28 dc and 24 chain 2s]

Round 7: (cluster round) Into each chain 2 from previous round, crochet a cluster and then chain three to the next space. In each corner, create a cluster corner (use chain3 between clusters) [28 clusters]

Change to yarn colour A

Round 8: Repeat Round 4 – 3 double crochets into the chain 3 spaces from previous round and 2dc, chain 2, 2 dc into the corner. [96 dc and 8 chain]

Change to yarn colour C

Round 9: Starting anywhere but the corner. Treble crochet around the square. In the corner spaces treble crochet, chain 2, and treble crochet again. Continue to treble crochet around the square back to the beginning. Slip stitch to first treble crochet to end round. [104 tr and 8 chain]

Round 10: Treble crochet around the square. In the corner spaces treble crochet, chain 2, and treble crochet again. Continue to treble crochet around the square back to the beginning. Slip stitch to first treble crochet to end round. (Measure at this row to determine if you need to treble crochet the next round.) [112 tr and 8 chain]

Round 11: Treble crochet around the square. In the corner spaces treble crochet, chain 2, and treble crochet again. Continue to treble crochet around the square back to the beginning. Slip stitch to first treble crochet to end round. (Should measure 11 ¾” or 12” at this point). [120 tr and 8 chain] 

Block 26 US Version

The US terms pattern is a free Ravelry download and can be found here.

Joining

Join this one to the Quincey’s Rose square of week 21.

We are really into the project now.  Hope your throws are all coming together well.  We are almost ready for a bit of a joining frenzy then it will really start to take shape :)

Don’t forget to share your pics so I can show off your cleverness :)

In a Spin Week 23

Leave a reply

Hi folks :)

So how did you go with your translating if you had to?  Hope it all worked out for you.  These look great :)

By Lesley E

 

By Matrisse of Instagram – a new cal participant :)

By Judy S (jsoekov of Instagram)

 

This week is a bit of a special week.  The block we are hooking is going to be the centre piece of our throw if you’re following my layout plan.  It’s a really effective one and its also a block for a cause.  This week, I’d love it if you could hook one for your throw and also one to send off to the designer so she can make blankets from them for a cause very dear to her heart.

Hooked by me to send away.

Hooked by me to send away.

Let me explain, or rather I’ll let Shelby , the pattern designer, explain:

“Abused Deaf Women’s Advocacy Service, ADWAS is an organization that is near and dear to my heart. They provide services to Deaf and Deaf/Blind women who have been effected by domestic violence. Before 1983 no such services were available. When I am not crocheting I am working an a professional sign language interpreter.

The name Kiss-Fist is the name of a sign. Make a fist with your thumb in front of your fingers. Then kiss the back of your hand. This is KISS-Fist and it means to really love something. Both crocheting and signing are things that I love.

Please help with spreading the love to women and children who are in need during a tough time.

Shelby”

Shelby has very kindly given me permission to translate the pattern into UK terms as you’ll see below.

Notes

Size and Border

The pattern makes a 9″ square so be mindful of your size as you go as we want a 20cm (8″) square for our project then add your dc (sc) border.  But make sure you make a 9″ one for Shelby if you are able to help her out.

Shelby’s contact details are in the Ravelry pattern link found here so you can find out where to send your extra square.  Shelby is located in the US and she understands if your are in another country that the postage costs may be prohibitive.  It cost $6.45 for me to send mine from here in Australia as a large letter weighing over 50 grams  If your envelope weighs under 50 grams, it will cost $2.60.  (Don’t get me started on our postage costs – ridiculous!)

Hooked by rebby of Ravelry

KISS-FIST

9″ Afghan Block Crochet

by Shelbyshea c. 2012

Materials:

  • · Worsted weight acrylic yarn
  • · Crochet hook size: suggested size I (5.5mm)
  • · Finished size: 9” (approx 23cm)

Notes:

  • Corners: starting with round 2, even-numbered rounds use a (2 tr, ch 2, 2 tr) corner pattern, and odd-numbered rounds use (3 dc) corner pattern.
  • All Colours are fastened off at the end of each round.
  • Personal preference can be used to modify joining colour and fastening off methods, such as air stitches and invisible joins. When ‘join with a tr’ is indicated, use either ‘join w/sl st and ch-3’ or air crochet.
  • Pattern is written to join and start in corners for each round. All corners and sides are completed to be symmetrical, so you could start and stop at different locations if desired.
  • Make sure you keep your tension very loose on tr stitches going into prior rounds to avoid pulling the side of the square inward.

Stitch key 

Sk 1 is skip one stitch

Special stitch:

X-Stitch – 4 stitch pattern as dedcribed below

(Use either tr or dtr depending on your stitching style. It might be better for tighter crocheters to consider using dtr here. Margaret thinks they should all be dtr, and so does Amy lol) 

Skip 2 tr stitches in previous round, keeping yarn in front create a loose tr into the second stitch that was skipped two rounds back (NOTE: the stitch is made in the “gap” from the sk st and ch 1 of the previous round), return back up to current round and dc in next 2 st (the two tr that were skipped at start of X-Stitch), create a loose tr back across into the first stitch that was skipped two rounds back (making an “X” with the two tr stitches)

(NOTE: You will have to insert your hook from “back to front” to catch the top of the stitch in the lower round and then yo and pull it back up to finish off your tr.)

Instructions: 

With Colour A, Ch 5, join with a sl st to form ring (or use adjustable ring method)

Round 1: Ch 3 as tr, 3 tr in ring, ch 2, (4 tr in ring, ch 2) 3 times; join w/ sl st to top of beg ch-3. Fasten off Colour A. (or tighten adjustable ring). [16 tr, 4 ch-2 sp]

Round 2: Join Colour B w/tr (see NOTES) in any corner sp, (1 tr, ch 2, 2 tr) in same sp; [ch 1, sk 1, tr in next 2 st, sk 1, ch 1, (tr corner—see notes)] 3 times; (ch 1, sk 1, tr in next 2 st, sk 1, ch 1); join w/ sl st to top of beg tr. Fasten off Colour B. (24 tr, 4 ch-2 sp, 8 ch-1 sp])

Round 3: Join Colour A w/dc in any corner sp, 2 dc in same sp; [(dc in next 2 st, X-stitch, dc in next 2 st) (dc corner—see notes)] 3 times; (dc in next 2 st, X-stitch, dc in next 2 st); join w/ sl st to top of beg dc. Fasten off Colour A. (4 X-st, 28 visible dc, 8 dc in the 4 X-st)

Round 4: Join Colour C w/tr in any corner sp, (1 tr, ch 2, 2 tr) in same sp; [ch 1, sk 1, tr in next 2 st, sk 1, ch 1, tr in next 2 st, sk 1, ch 1, tr in next 2 st, sk 1, ch 1, (tr corner—see notes)] 3 times; (ch 1, sk 1, tr in next 2 st, sk 1, ch 1, tr in next 2 st, sk 1, ch 1, tr in next 2 st, sk 1, ch 1,); join w/ sl st to top of beg tr. Fasten off Colour C. [48 tr, 4 ch-2 sp, 16 ch-1 sp]

Round 5: Join Colour A w/dc in any corner st, 2 dc in same sp; [( dc in next 2 st, X-stitch, dc in next 2 st, Xstitch, dc in next 2 st) (dc corner)] 3 times; (dc in next 2 st, X-stitch, 2 dc, X-stitch, dc in next 2 st); join w/ sl st to top of beg dc. Fasten off Colour A. (36 visible dc, 16 dc in the 8 X-st)

Round 6: Join Colour B w/tr in any corner sp, (1 tr, ch 2, 2 tr) in same sp; [Ch 1, sk 1 st, (tr in next 2 st, sk 1, ch 1) 5 times; (tr corner)] 3 times; Ch 1, sk 1, (tr in next 2 st, sk 1, ch 1) 5 times; join w/ sl st to top of beg tr. Fasten off Colour B.( 56 tr, 4 ch-2 sps, 24 ch-1 sps)

Round 7: Join Colour A w/dc in any corner st, 2 dc in same sp;[ (dc in next 2 st, 1 tr inserted in stitch below gap into Round 5) 6 times; dc in next 2 st, (dc corner)] 3 times; (dc in next 2 st, 1 tr inserted in stitch below gap into Round 5) 6 times; dc in next 2 st; join w/ sl st to top of beg dc. Fasten off Colour A. (68 dc, 24 tr)

Round 8: Join Colour C w/tr in any corner st, (1 tr, ch 2, 2 tr) in same sp; [ch 1, sk 1 st, (tr in next 2 st, sk  1, ch 1) 7 times; (tr corner)] 3 times; ch 1, sk 1, ( tr in next 2 st, sk 1, ch 1) 7 times; join w/ sl st to top of beg tr. Fasten off Colour C. (72 tr, 4 ch-2 sps, 32 ch-1 sp)

Round 9: Join Colour A w/dc in any corner sp, 2 dc in same sp;[ (dc in next 2 st, 1 tr inserted in stitch below gap into Round 5) 8 times; dc in next 2 st, (dc corner)] 3 times; (dc in next 2 st, 1 tr inserted in stitch below gap into Round 5) 8 times; dc in next 2 st; join w/ sl st to top of beg dc. Fasten off Colour A. (84 dc, 32 tr)

Optional Rounds: Depending on size of square after Round 9, you can add Rounds 10 and 11 in same fashion as Rounds 8 and 9 using Colours B and A. Or, you can also surround with a simple dc, htr, or tr border in any of your colours to reach desired size. Picture shown uses a Colour B tr border done in BLO, with 28 tr on each side and (2 tr, ch 1, 2 tr) corners. 

Block 23 US Version

You can find the US version on Ravelry here.

Joining

Once you’re done, join this one to the lacy granny of Week 11. You should have a row of 5 x 20 cm (8″) blocks.

After the Kick off Notes

If you are having trouble with this one (and it is a bit tricky), check out the picture tutorial that is available for download also from Ravelry here.  Just click download the pattern and you will have the option then to choose the tutorial.

Don’t forget to share pics about the place so we can see how you’re going :)

In a Spin Week 22

Leave a reply

Hi folks :)

Last week’s block worked just as well in multi-colours as it did in one solid don’t you think?

By Lesley E

By MissSophieL

 

By Byddhines

This week we are back to a small 15cm (6″) square.  It’s called Garden Granny by Pattys Filet & Crocheting.

By jojo99 on Ravlery

Now as you know, I am asking permission each week to translate the patterns into UK terms. This week I do not have permission to do this, but please don’t worry if you need UK terms.  I have made up a tutorial on how to do this for you.  You can find it here. As it’s a small square, its perfect to have a go at translating for yourself. Please remember to do this for your own personal use only.  Thank you.

Notes

Size and Border

Make it up to 15 cm (6″) and then add your normal border of dc(sc).

Block 24

The US terms pattern can be found here on Patty’s blog. If you’d like to add it to your Ravelry projects, you can find it here.

Joining

Once you’re done, join this to the Corkscrew square from week 20.

After the Kick off Notes

Here is where I will add any notes that may help once a few folks have had a go.

Don’t forget to share pics about the place so we can see how you’re going :)

In a Spin Week 21

3 Replies

Hi folks :)

I found last week’s a little tricky – a few of you ended up with spiders instead of corkscrews but you persevered and got there in the end – well done!  Now we know something new :)

By Julie S on Facebook

 

By Heather C on Facebook

 

By me – not intentional. I made a mistake in the first round & didn’t notice until I ran out of room for more corkscrews so I went with it

This week we are hooking up a 30cm (12″) square by Krystyl Randall called Quincey’s Rose. Krystyl is pretty amazing and a big part of the Ravelry community.  She has a blog called Tea and Crochet which sounds just right to me.  Thanks Krystal for allowing us to use your pattern and for me to translate it :)

Notes

Size and Border

The pattern says this is a 10″ square so you will have to add a round or two to make this up to 30 cm (12 ” ) then add your normal dc (sc) border

Block 23 UK Terms

Hook used for model was a 5mm (H) hook.

Yarn used for model was Red Heart Comfort (colour “red”)

Special stitches used:

Begin Cluster: Ch 2, yarn over, insert hook into stitch, yarn over & draw through stitch, yarn over, draw through 2 loops on hook, yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, yarn over & draw through stitch, yarn over and draw through 2 loops on hook, yarn over & draw through all 3 loops on hook.

Cluster: Yarn over, insert hook into stitch, yarn over & draw through stitch, yarn over & draw through 2 loops on hook, (yarn over, insert hook into same stitch, yarn over & draw through 2 loops on hook) twice, yarn over & draw through all four loops on hook.

X Stitch (also called a Treble Crochet Cross Stitch): Skip one stitch, make normal TR in next stitch, insert hook into skipped stitch, make regular TR.

INSTRUCTIONS:

1) Make 8 DC in magic ring, SS at top of 1st DC to join.

2) Make Begin Cluster in 1st DC, ch 2, (Cluster, ch 2) x7, SS at top of Begin Cluster to join.

3) (Ch 4, SS into top of Cluster) around, ch 4, SS to begin ch 4 at beginning of round to join.

4) SS into ch 4 space, ch 3, 4 TR in ch 4 space, (5 TR in next ch 4 space) around, SS in top of ch 3 at beginning of round to join.

5) Ch 3, (TR, ch 2, 2 TR) in same space, *HTR in next 3 stitches, DC in next 3 stitches, HTR in next 3 stitches, (2 TR, ch 2, 2 TR) in next stitch; repeat from * around, SS at top of ch 3 at beginning of round to join.

6) SS to corner ch 2 space, ch 3, (TR, ch 2, 2 TR) in same space, *ch 1, (skip next stitch, X stitch, ch 1) x4, skip next stitch, (2 TR, ch 2, 2 TR) in corner ch 2 space, repeat from * around, ch 1, SS in top of ch 3 at beginning of round to join.

7) SS to corner ch 2 space, ch 3, (TR, ch 2, 2 TR) in same space, ch 1, *(HTR in each stitch & in each ch 1 space) across to corner ch 2 space, ch 1, (2 TR, ch2, 2 TR) in corner ch 2 space, ch 1, repeat from *, SS to top of ch 3 at beginning of round to join.

8) SS to corner ch 2 space, ch 3, (TR, ch 2, 2 TR) in same space, *TR in next 2 stitches, (ch 3, skip 2 stitches, SS in next stitch) x5, ch 3, skip 2 stitches, TR in next 2 stitches, (2 TR, ch 2, 2TR) in corner ch 2 space, repeat from *, ch 3, SS at top of ch 3 at beginning of round to join.

9) SS to corner ch 2 space, ch 3, (TR, ch 2, 2 TR) in same space, ch 1, *skip next stitch, HTR in next stitch, DC in next 2 stitches, DC in next ch 3 space, ch 1, (3TR in next ch 3 space, ch 1) x4, DC in next ch 3 space, DC in next 2 stitches, HTR in next stitch, skip next stitch, (2 TR, ch 2, 2 TR), in corner, repeat from *, ch 1, SS in top of ch 3 at beginning of round to join.

10) Ch 2, HTR in next stitch, *(2 HTR, ch 2, 2 HTR) in corner ch 2 space, HTR in each stitch & in each ch 1 space across, repeat from *, SS in top of ch 2 at beginning of round to join.

11) Ch 3, TR in next 3 stitches, *(2 TR, ch2, 2 TR) in corner ch 2 space, TR in each stitch across, repeat from *, SS in top of ch 3 at beginning of round to join.

Fasten off, weave in all ends, block & enjoy!

Block  US Version

By Nikabar on Ravelry

The US terms pattern can be found on Krystal’s blog and the Ravelry project is here.

Joining

When you are done, join this one to Winter Rose from week 19.

After the Kick off Notes

Here’s where I’ll add anything that may help after a few folks have had a go.

Completed Throw

Yes we have another completed throw.  The maker was giving it as a gift so finished it early.  Looks great I think :)

By Kerry G on Facebook

Don’t forget to share pics about the place so we can see how you’re going :)

Translating US terms to UK terms – we’re talking crochet here.

9 Replies

Hi folks :)

When I first started to teach myself to crochet, I was totally unaware that crochet terms meant different things depending where you live. This can lead to problems – trust me I have had to re-do a few things because I was hooking to UK terms, but to a US pattern.  Doesn’t work most of the time.

I have since come up with ways to help me translate from US to UK, which are the terms I am more comfortable with, and I thought I’d share them with you today.

So is my pattern in UK or US terms?

When you have a new pattern to try, the first thing to do is find our what terms it is written in. A quick way is to look for a stitch called “SC” or “single crochet”. If your pattern has these, then it is in US terms.

stitches

If you are a UK terms person like me, there are a couple of ways you can confidently hook it up.

Translating on the fly

The first way is to have a short conversion chart handy that you can refer to as you crochet.  This one for example has the more common stitches. Just a note – “ch” and “ss” are the same regardless.

   US Term                  UK Equivalent

sc  (single crochet)                          dc (double crochet)

hdc (half double crochet)                htr (half treble crochet)

dc (double crochet)                          tr (treble crochet)

tr (tripe crochet)                              dtr (double treble crochet)

Need more stitches? A very extensive conversion chart can be found here.

If you are still a beginner though, that can mess with your head when you are still learning so it is really better to have the pattern written out in UK terms.

Translating into a written pattern

Before I get into telling you how to go about doing this, I must stress that you must only do this for your personal use.  You cannot translate a pattern and then post it around the place and share it with your friends.  It’s just not on.  The only exception to this is if you have permission from the designer.  And then you must state the original source of the pattern. Really,  I mean it OK?

Right – now that’s been said, here’s how I translate from US terms to UK terms. I am really breaking this down because I know there are some folks who are not very confident when it comes to computers.  I know most of you will be fine with this and know lots of other ways to achieve the same thing. Please bear with me for the sake of the less-computer savvy.

  1. Have your pattern up on your computer.  (Sorry – if its a hard copy – you’ll just have to make notes on it or re-write it.)
  2. Select the bits you need – usually any notes and rounds 1 to whatever.  By select, I mean holding your left mouse button down at the start of where you want to select, move the mouse to the end and then let go of the button.  The bits you want should be highlighted now.
    highlighted
  3. With your mouse pointer somewhere over the highlighted bits, click the left right mouse button. (thanks  Kaz!)
  4. A little menu should pop up where one of the options is “copy”.  That’s the one you want.  Click it.
    copy
  5. Open up your word processing program of choice – I use Word, but you can use anything similar Notepad works just the same – and open a new blank document
  6. With your mouse over the page somewhere, click your right mouse button again and this time when the menu pops up, choose “paste” Your pattern should have appeared. Now on to the translating bit.
  7. Make a note of the stitches used in the pattern from smallest to biggest.  Write down the equivalents next to them.
  8. Starting with the largest stitches, use your “find and replace” function to change them as shown here – choose “replace all” :
    find replace
  9. Work your way down the stitch sizes until you have replaced them all. (You wont have to worry about hdc/htr as dc/tr find and replace will fix those for you)
    NOTE : if your pattern uses the full “stitch” word and “tc” for tr,  your “stitch” words will be changed too as it has “tc” in the word.  You can choose “find next” then “replace” each instance to make sure its just the stitch instructions. (thanks Bev!)
  10. Save it as UK terms & that’s it.  You’re done.  :)

Now if you want to go the other way from UK terms to US terms, you do all the same things, but work from the smallest stitches up to the biggest.

That’s all there is to it.  You can do it.  And honestly, after you’ve done it a few times, you wont need to anymore.  You will very quickly become crochet bi-lingual and be able to hook anything up regardless of which terms patterns are written in.

 

Mini Crochet Gift Bag Free Pattern

4 Replies

Hiho folks :)

You know how sometimes an idea strikes you from out of the blue & it won’t leave you alone until you’ve tried it?  Well that happened to me this week.  This is the result.

You can put anything in them of course - apples work well too

You can put anything in them of course – apples work well.  How about xmas baubles or easter eggs?

I have become so used to doing things in UK & US terms, I have provided both here for you. If  you want a nice formatted PDF file version of the pattern, it is available in your choice of terms in my Etsy shop for just $2 - click here for PDF.

I am happy for you to use this pattern freely, but please don’t reproduce or resell it.   If on the ‘net, please link back here so folks can see it was me who was clever ;)  You may sell items made from this pattern as long as you link back to the pattern source – just a note to say “Pattern by Spincushions” is fine :)

If you’d like to add it to your Ravelry projects click here.

Materials

I used a 4mm hook (G) and 5 ply (sport weight) acrylic/cotton mix yarn to make the pictured bags.  You bag size will vary depending on the yarn and hook you choose to use.  Mine are about 20 cm (9 inches) from bottom to top when flattened out and about 9cm (3.5 inches) across the widest point when flat.

UK Terms

Stitches :

ss = slip stitch

st ch= starting chain

ch = chain

dc = double crochet

htr = half treble crochet

tr = treble crochet

Each round begins with a starting chain.  This starting chain is counted in the end of round stitch count.

Round 1

8dc into magic circle.  ss into first dc (8dc)

Round 2

ch 1 (2dc into same stitch, dc in next stitch) x 4.  ss into 1st dc (12 dc)

Round 3

ch1, 2dc into same stitch, (2 dc into next stitch) x 11.  ss into 1st dc (24 dc)

Round 4

ch 2 (st ch), htr into next 23 stitches.  ss into 2nd ch of st ch. (24 htr)

Round 5

ch 3 (st ch), tr in next 23 stitches.  ss into 3rd ch of st ch (24 tr)

Round 6

ch 1 dc in same space (ch 3, skip 1 stitch, dc into next stitch) x 11 3 ch ss into 1st dc (12 x 3 ch loops and 12 dc)

Round 7

ss to 3 ch loop.  1 ch 1 dc in loop, (ch 3 dc in next loop) x 11.  ch 3 ss into 1st dc  (12 x 3 ch loops and 12 dc)

Round 8 – 12

Repeat round 7

Round 13

ss to 3 ch loop, 3 ch (st ch) 2 tr, (3 tr into next loop) x 11.  ss into 3rd ch of st ch. (36 tr)

Round 14

ch 3 (st ch), tr into each stitch x 35 ss to 3rd ch of st ch. (36 tr)

Round 15

ch1 dc in same stitch, dc into each stitch around.  ss into 1st dc (36 dc)

Round 16

ch 1, dc in same stitch, dc in next 3 stitches. 15 ch, skip the next 9 stitches,(this forms the first handle) dc in the next 9 stitches, ch 15 skip the next 9 stitches (this forms the second handle), dc in next 5 stitches.  ss into 1st dc.

Round 17

ch1 dc in same stitch, dc in each dc up to the 15 ch.  20 dc around 15 ch, dc into next stiches up to next 15 ch.  20 dc around 15 ch, dc into all stitches to end.  ss into 1st dc.

Round 18

ch1 dc into same stitch.  dc into each dc from previous round.  ss to 1st dc.  Fasten off, weave in ends and enjoy. :)

 Flat bags

US terms

Stitches :

ss = slip stitch

st ch= starting chain

ch = chain

sc = single crochet

hdc = half double crochet

dc = double crochet

Each round begins with a starting chain.  This starting chain is counted in the end of round stitch count.

Round 1

8sc into magic circle.  ss into first sc (8sc)

Round 2

ch 1 (2sc into same stitch, sc in next stitch) x 4.  ss into 1st sc (12 sc)

Round 3

ch1, 2sc into same stitch, (2 sc into next stitch) x 11.  ss into 1st sc (24 sc)

Round 4

ch 2 (st ch), hdc into next 23 stitches.  ss into 2nd ch of st ch. (24 hdc)

Round 5

ch 3 (st ch), dc in next 23 stitches.  ss into 3rd ch of st ch (24 dc)

Round 6

ch 1 sc in same space (ch 3, skip 1 stitch, sc into next stitch) x 11 3 ch ss into 1st sc (12 x 3 ch loops and 12 sc)

Round 7

ss to 3 ch loop.  1 ch 1 sc in loop, (ch 3 sc in next loop) x 11.  ch 3 ss into 1st sc  (12 x 3 ch loops and 12 sc)

Round 8 – 12

Repeat round 7

Round 13

ss to 3 ch loop, 3 ch (st ch) 2 dc, (3 dc into next loop) x 11.  ss into 3rd ch of st ch. (36 dc)

Round 14

ch 3 (st ch), dc into each stitch x 35 ss to 3rd ch of st ch. (36 dc)

Round 15

ch1 sc in same stitch, sc into each stitch around.  ss into 1st sc (36 sc)

Round 16

ch 1, sc in same stitch, sc in next 3 stitches. 15 ch, skip the next 9 stitches,(this forms the first handle) sc in the next 9 stitches, ch 15 skip the next 9 stitches (this forms the second handle), sc in next 5 stitches.  ss into 1st sc.

Round 17

ch1 sc in same stitch, sc in each sc up to the 15 ch.  20 sc around 15 ch, sc into next stiches up to next 15 ch.  20 sc around 15 ch, sc into all stitches to end.  ss into 1st sc.

Round 18

ch1 sc into same stitch.  sc into each sc from previous round.  ss to 1st sc.  Fasten off, weave in ends and enjoy. :)

apples in bag side view

In a Spin Week 19

2 Replies

Hi folks :)

Love what you did with last week’s block. :)

By jsoekov of Instagram

By lolaandemilin on Instagram 

By me :)

This week we are back to a big one – a 30cm (12″) one.  It’s a block by Julee Reeves of the blog JR Crochet Designs.  The block is called Winter Rose Sampler Square.  Julee goes by the name of CroJulee on Ravelry and has lots of patterns available there.  Julee has kindly given her permission to use the pattern for our CAL and for the translation. Thanks Julee :)

Notes

Make the square up to 30cm (12″) then add your normal dc (sc) border.

Block  UK Version

By CrisKad on Ravelry

Winter Rose 12″ Sampler Square

Finished Size: 12″ X 12″

Materials:
Size 4 mm (G) hook (or size 3.75 (F) if you crochet loose)
Approx. 4 ounces worsted weight yarn of choice
Tapestry Needle for weaving in ends.

Gauge:4 Dc and 4 Dc Rows= 1″ Square

SpecialStitches:
Popcorn: Tr in indicated space 5 times, take hook out of loop and insert into first tr made,then back into the dropped loop. Pull the loop through the first tr.

Shell: (2 tr, ch2, 2 tr) into indicated space.

Front Post Treble Crochet (FPTR): Yarn over, insert hook behind post of stitch (insert hook from front to back of stitch), Yarn over, pull through, Yarn over, (pull through 2 loops) 2X’s. That will complete the FPTR.

Front Post Treble Crochet Two Together: (This is worked almost completely the same as the FPTR- Around the posts and counts as one Tr) *Yarn over, insert hook behind post of first Tr,(insert hook from front to back of stitch), Yarn over, pull through, Yarn over, pull through 2 loops.* Repeat from * to * in next Tr. You will have 3 loops on hook. Yarn over and pull through all 3 loops on hook. This stitch is worked over the 2 FPTR’s right by each other in Rnd 11. Basically a TR 2 Tog just around the post of a stitch instead.

Cluster: *Yo, insert hook in st indicated, Yo and pull up a loop, yo and draw through 2 loops on hook; Repeat from * 2 more times, Yo and draw through all 4 loops on hook. Cluster completed.

V st: (tr, ch1, tr) in space indicated in pattern.

Yo: Yarn over.

Note: If you’d like to make the centre a different colour fasten off yarn at end of Rnd 2 and join your main colour in any Ch2 space and start off with Rnd 3 on through the rest of the pattern. Also, it’s possible you might be close to 12″ or very close to 12″ when you’re a few rows from being done with the pattern. If that’s the case, just omit the last few rows. The design will still hold itself. The last few rnds just helped me to get up to 12 inches. I’m a fairly tight crocheter.

Ch2,
Rnd 1: 8 Dc in second Ch from Hk; join with Sl St in first Dc. (8 Dc)

Rnd 2: Ch3, Tr 4 times in same St as Sl St (base of Ch3), take hook out of loop and insert into first Tr made (top of Ch3), then back into the dropped loop. Pull the loop through the first Tr, Ch2, *Popcorn in next dc, Ch2*; Repeat from * to * 7 times. Join with Sl St in top of beg Ch3. Sl st to next Ch2 space. (8 popcorn Sts, 8 Ch2 Sps)

Rnd 3: Ch1, Dc in same St as Sl St, Ch5, Dc in same Sp, *Ch4, Dc in next Ch2 Sp,Ch4, Dc in next Ch2 Sp, Ch5, Dc in same Sp.* Repeat from * to * 3 times. Ch4, Dc in next Ch2 Sp, Ch4, Sl St in first Dc and in next Ch5 Sp. ( 8 Ch4 Sps, 4 Ch5 Sps)

Rnd 4: Ch1, Dc in same Sp as Sl St 7 times, * (4 Dc in next Ch4 Sp) 2 times, 7 Dc in next Ch5 Sp.* Repeat from * to * 3 times. (4 Dc in next Ch4 Sp) 2 times, Sl St in first Dc. ( 60 Dc)

Rnd 5: Ch1, Dc in same St as Sl St, Ch3, Skip next 2 Dc, (Dc, Ch3, Dc) in next Dc, * (Ch3, skip next 2 Dc, Dc in next Dc) 4 times, Ch3, Skip next 2 Dc, (Dc, Ch3, Dc) in next Dc.* Repeat from * to * 3 times. (Ch3, skip next 2 Dc, Dc in next Dc) 3 times, Ch3, Sl St in first Dc and in next Ch3 Sp. ( 24 Ch3 Sps)

Rnd 6: Ch1, Dc in same Sp as Sl St, Ch3, (Dc, Ch3, Dc) in next Ch3 Sp (corner), * (Ch3, Dc in next Ch3 Sp) 5 times, Ch3, (Dc, Ch3, Dc) in next Ch3 Sp (corner).* Repeat from * to * 3 times, (Ch3, Dc in next Ch3 Sp) 4 times, Ch3, Sl St in first Dc and in next Ch3 Sp. (28 Ch3 Sps)

Rnd 7: Ch1, Dc in same Sp as Sl St, Ch3, (Dc, Ch3, Dc) in next Ch3 Sp (corner),*(Ch3, Dc in next Ch3 Sp) 6 times, Ch3, (Dc, Ch3, Dc) in next Ch3 Sp (corner).*Repeat from * to * 3 times,(Ch3, Dc in next Ch3 Sp) 5 times, Ch3, Sl St in first Dc and in next Ch3 Sp. ( 32 Ch3 Sps)

Rnd 8: Ch1, Dc in same Sp as Sl st, Ch2, (Dc, Ch3, Dc) in next Ch3 Sp (corner),*(Ch2, Dc in next Ch3 Sp) 7 times,Ch2, (Dc,Ch3, Dc) in next Ch3 Sp (corner).* Repeat from * to * 3 times,(Ch2, Dc in next Ch3 Sp) 6 times, Ch2, Sl St in first Dc and in next Ch2 Sp.(4 Ch3 Sps, 32 Ch2 Sps)

Rnd 9: Ch1, 3 Dc in same Sp as Sl St, (Dc, Ch3, Dc) in next Ch3 Sp (corner), *(3 Dc in nextCh2 Sp) 8 times, (Dc, Ch3, Dc) in next Ch3 Sp (corner).* Repeat from * to * 3 times, (3 Dc in next Ch2 Sp) 7 times, Sl St in first Dc and in next Dc. (104 Dc, 4 Ch3 Sps)

Rnd 10: Ch4, Tr in same St as Sl St, skip next 2 Dc, Shell in next Ch3 Sp (corner), *(skip next 2 dc, V-St in next Dc) 8 times, skip next 2 Dc, Shell in next Ch3 Sp (corner).* Repeat from * to * 3 times, (skip next 2 Dc, V-St in next Dc) 7 times, skip next 2 dc, Sl St in 3rd Ch of the 4 at beg of rnd and in next Ch1 Sp(in middle of V-St). (32 V-Sts, 4 Shells)

Rnd 11:Ch3, FPTR around next Tr, skip next 2 Tr, Shell in Shell (corner), *skip next 2 Tr,(FPTR around Next Tr, Tr in next Ch1 Sp, FPTR around next Tr) 8 times (repeat parenthesis 1 time for each V-St), skip next 2 Tr, Shell in Shell (corner).* Repeat from * to * 3 times, skip next 2 Tr, (FPTR around next Tr, Tr in next Ch1 Sp, FPTR around next Tr) 7 times, FPTR around next Tr, Sl St in in top of Ch3. (32 Tr, 64 FPTR, 4 Shells. Trs in Shells is not included in count)

Rnd 12: Ch3, Tr in same St as Sl St, FPTR around next Tr, Tr in next 2 Tr, Shell in Shell (corner), * Tr in next 2 Tr, FPTR around next Tr, (2 Tr in next Tr, FPTR 2 Tog) 7 times, 2 Tr in next Tr, FPTR around next Tr, Tr in next 2 Tr, Shell in Shell (corner).* Repeat from * to * 3 times, Tr in next 2 Tr, FPTR around next Tr, (2 Tr in next Tr, FPTR 2 Tog) 7 times, Sl St in top of Ch3. ( 80 Tr, 28 FPTR2Tog, 8 FPTR,4 Shells. Trs in Shells is not included in count )

Rnd 13: Ch3, Tr in next Tr, FPTR around next Tr, Tr in next 4 Tr, Shell in Shell (corner), *Tr in next 4 Tr, (FPTR around next Tr, Tr in next 2 Tr)9 times, Tr in next 2 Tr, Shell in Shell (corner).* Repeat from * to * 3 times, Tr in next 4 Tr, (FPTR around next Tr, Tr in next 2 Tr) 7 times, FPTR around next Tr, Sl St in top of Ch3. (96 Tr, 36 FPTR, 4 Shells. Trs in Shells is not included in count)

Rnd 14: Ch1, Dc in same St as Sl St, and in next 8 Tr, (Dc in next Ch, Ch2, Dc in next Ch) for corner,*Dc in next 37 Tr, (Dc in next Ch, Ch2, Dc in next Ch) for corner.* Repeat from * to *3 times, Dc in next 28 Tr, Sl St in first Dc.(156 Dc including Dc in corners)

Rnd 15: Ch1, Dc in same St as Sl St and in next 9 Dc, (Dc in next Ch, Ch2, Dc in next Ch) for corner, *Dc in next 39 Tr, (Dc in next Ch, Ch2, Dc in next Ch) for corner.* Repeat from * to * 3 times, Dc in next 29 Dc, Sl St in first Dc and in next Dc. (164 Dc including Dc in corners, 4 Ch2 Sps)

Rnd 16: Ch1, Dc in same St as Sl St, (Ch2, skip next Dc, Dc in next Dc)4 times, Ch2, (Dc, Ch2,Dc) in next Ch2 Sp (corner), *(Ch2, skip next Dc, Dc in next Dc) 20 times, Ch2, (Dc, Ch2, Dc)in next Ch2 Sp (corner).* Repeat from * to *3 times, (Ch2, skip next Dc, Dc in next Dc)15 times, Ch2, Sl St in next dc and in next Ch2 Sp.(88 Ch2 Sps including Corner Ch2 Sps)

Note: Beg. Cluster is used only once (at the beginning of Rnd 17.).

Rnd 17: Ch2, Yo and insert hook in same Sp as Sl St, Yo and pull up a loop, Yo and draw through 2 loops on hook; Repeat 1 more time. Yo and draw through all 3 loops on hook (Beg Cluster),(Ch1, Cluster in next Ch2 Sp) 4 times, Ch1, (Cluster, Ch3, Cluster) in next Ch2 Sp (corner), *(Ch1, Cluster in next Ch2 Sp) 21 times, Ch1,(Cluster, Ch3, Cluster) in next Ch2 Sp (corner)*.Repeat from * to * 3 times, (Ch1, Cluster in next Ch2 Sp) 16 times, Ch1, Sl St in top of Cluster.  (92 Clusters including corner Clusters, 4 Ch3 Sps)

Rnd 18: Ch1, Dc in same St as Sl St, and in next 10 Sts, 5 Dc in corner Ch3 Sp, *Dc in next 45 Sts, 5 Dc in corner Ch3 Sp.* Repeat from * to * 3 times, Dc in next 34 Sts, Sl St in last Dc.(200 Dc)

Rnd 19: Ch1, Dc in same St as Sl St, and in next 12 Dc, (Htr, Ch2, Htr) in next Dc (middle Dc of 5 Dc in corner), *Dc in next 49 Dc, (Htr, Ch2, Htr) in next Dc (middle Dc of 5 Dc in corner).* Repeat from * to *3 times,Dc in next 36 Dc,Sl St in last Dc. Fasten Off Yarn and weave in ends.

This Pattern is copyrighted to Julee Reeves, September 10th, 2008. Pattern is for personal (gifts and that sort of thing) and charity use only. If you are interested in selling any of the items made from this pattern please contact me. Permission is required before selling any items made from any of my patterns.If permission to sell the finished item is granted it may not be sold online (only at craft fairs, farmers markets, Etc. ) and it may not be sold in Idaho or Montana (without my express permission). Copies of this and any of my other patterns MAY NOT be sold under any conditions.

Thank you
Julee Reeves (J.R. Designs)

Block  US Version

The US terms pattern can be found here and the Ravelry link here.

Joining

Once you’re done, join this one to the Anticipation block of week 17 – the one with the surface crochet – if you are following my plan.

After the Kick off Notes

Here is where I’ll add anything that may help if anyone has a problem.

Update on The Krista Facebook Group

The original Facebook Group that was set up over a year ago to help folks learn to do the Spotlight Krista Throw CAL is now closed.  This means that a lot of past pictures are going to disappear and links wont work so please bear with me as I fix up old posts.   If you were relying on the Krista Group to get you weekly In a Spin fix, here are your new options :

  • Join the Ravelry Group where I add links each week
  • Visit here every Friday 
  • Sign up to my blog to get an email every time I make a new post.  Be aware though that you will get some posts that don’t relate to In a Spin or crochet.
  • Follow my Spincushions Facebook Page where I post a link to each In a Spin pattern
  • Follow me on Twitter where new blog posts are also posted
  • Follow me on Instagram where I also link to the new pattern each week

Don’t forget to share pics about the place so we can see how you’re going :)